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Citation |
Deigaard R. Coast. Eng. (Amsterdam) 1993; 20(1-2): 157-171. |
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Copyright |
(Copyright © 1993, Elsevier Publishing) |
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DOI |
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PMID |
unavailable |
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Abstract |
The three-dimensional time-mean shear stress distribution in a surf zone is analyzed, thereby determining the vertical distribution of the driving forces due to wave-breaking. It is found that on a uniform coast the longshore current can be described as driven by a surface shear stress equal to the cross-shore gradient in the shear component of the radiation stress. The near surface shear stress is found to be in the direction of wave propagation, having a magnitude determined by the dissipation of wave energy. It can be determined as the shear force acting on the waves from the surface rollers of spilling breakers or broken waves. |