Citation

Shepard FP, Inman DL. Trans. Am. Geophys. Union 1950; 31(2): 196.

Copyright

(Copyright © 1950, American Geophysical Union)

DOI

10.1029/TR031i002p00196

PMID

unavailable

Abstract

The nearshore circulation in the vicinity of Scripps Beach has been measured by means of very simple devices. It has been found that this circulation is controlled to a large degree by the wave convergence and divergence resulting from the diversified submarine relief outside this gently curving shoreline. The position of rip currents is similarly related to the points of wave convergence and divergence. The existence of strong longshore currents flowing against the direction of wave approach is established. The development of large eddies with vertical axes is discussed. Also the pulsating nature of outflowing rip currents is related to alternating groups of high and low breakers.