Citation

Munk WH, Traylor MA. J. Geol. 1947; 55(1): 1-26.

Copyright

(Copyright © 1947, University of Chicago Press)

DOI

10.2307/30056995

PMID

unavailable

Abstract

Waves out at sea, though usually forming a complex pattern, have essentially the same characteristics over large distances. Upon entering shallow water, these waves are transformed under the influence of bottom features, and such transformations may be so marked that breaker heights may vary greatly over short distances along the shore. The effect of bottom features upon waves can largely be interpreted in terms of a simple physical process-wave refraction. In turn, wave refraction may be responsible for alteration of the bottom features by accumulation or removal of sediments and, in this manner, be an important factor in beach erosion. In this report the role of wave refraction is first reviewed in the light of other processes affecting the transformation of waves in shallow water. The mechanism of refraction is illustrated by means of a few idealized examples, such as the refraction pattern along a straight uniformly sloping beach, over a submarine canyon and ridge, and around a headland. Next it is shown that extreme variations in breaker height along the beach north of La Jolla, California, can be computed for typical swell conditions, taking the complex local bottom topography and the orientation of the coastline into consideration. These changes are computed from refraction diagrams for typical swell conditions, and they compare favorably with observed changes in wave height, thus indicating that wave refraction is the primary mechanism controlling changes in wave height along a beach, and that friction, diffraction, and other processes can be of secondary importance only. Finally, it is noted that the transportation of sediments is dependent upon longshore currents, rip currents, and horizontal diffusion and that all these factors are greatly influenced by the existing refraction pattern.