Citation

Longuet-Higgins MS. Proceedings of the Royal Society of London. Series A, Mathematical and Physical Sciences 1983; 390(1799): 283-291.

Copyright

(Copyright © 1983)

DOI

10.2307/2397613

PMID

unavailable

Abstract

Waves approaching a sloping beach induce a tilt in the mean water level within the surf zone. The existence of this 'set-up' is here demonstrated by observing the mean flow in a straight tube laid parallel to the incoming waves; also by showing that the waves induce a siphon in a U-tube laid on the sloping bottom. It is argued theoretically, and confirmed by experiment, that the set-up should help to drive an offshore bottom current (the undertow) between the shoreline and the breaker line. Seawards from the breaker line the bottom current is reversed. The consequent convergence of the bottom currents may contribute to building up the 'breaker bar'. Further experiments show that the mean onshore pressure gradient drives a circulation of water within a porous beach. The associated pattern of streamlines also extends into the land, inshore from the run-up line. Theoretically, the injection of dye at the sediment-water interface might be used to probe the porosity of the beach material.